LS Swap Automatic Transmission Guide

Oh, the mighty slush box. They are generally strong, reliable, and upgradeable, all while giving you the benefit of low RPM during highway cruising thanks to the magic that is overdrive. To find out just what it is that makes the modern GM Auto Overdrive transmissions tick, and to help you choose the right one for your car, we went to the transmission experts at TCI, Hughes Performance, and Gearstar. These guys know the ins and outs of these transmissions, and they filled us in on the strengths and weaknesses of each design, and how they can be modified into bullet proof units that can handle anything you can throw at them. They have been used in almost every rear-wheel drive model that GM has offered since then. Pete Nichols from Hughes Performance offered us this advice on where to find each type of transmission. The names of late model GM overdrive transmissions can seem complicated at first glance with all the different mixes of letters and numbers, but decoding them is really rather easy. Take for example the common 4L60E: The higher this number is 65, 70, 80 the more torque it can handle. However they did get progressively better, along with newer and stronger models that came after them.

help wiring lockup on thc

In his original gearboxes, he used a hodge podge of Muncie and T10 architecture. I’d be really surprised if you had “Muncie” gears from him. Can you get tooth counts? On to crash boxes!

Jun 19,  · R4 won’t shift into overdrive Is this a TPS problem? Is there a TPS fo rthe r4? Did you hook up the electrics? The converter needs power to lock up in 4th. Don’t drive it in 4th for too long before you hook up the electrics if you didn’t. There are lots of info on this on the net.

Thanks for the info. I had no idea. It came from a ’55 Imperial. Good to keep in mind if I ever want to get rid of it. California Adventurer 60 – 1: You have to have OD on everytime you go forward, You cant use D. Might be a problem if towing, climing, heavy load etc. You are right about the number, but not about what would be available. You would still have Drive that you could use for towing. Yes, I have a speed sensor that will engage the torque converter lockup at 42mph.

It will disconnect when applying the brakes, or going slower than 42 mph. See post 4 As far as know sifting th takes much more force than pushbutton Pf or TfA, it is designed for heavy duty shifters not like 50’s or 60’s pushbuttons. Have you tested yet that button system can move proberly the shifter axle?

How to Wire a Switch to Lock Up the Torque Converter on a R Transmission

Report John answered 5 years ago The test is: Once you start the truck the pressure should drop to about when you rev the engine it may increase slightly but may not and if you do a road test it should be If it pressurizes good but drops below 11 when you initially turn the key on then I would suspect there’s a good chance the diaphragm in the regulator has ruptured. If it doesn’t put out good results to begin with then we could suspect the pump.

May 06,  · Hook the vacuum hose to ported vacuum on the carb. Put the choke switch in the pipe plug outlet for 4th gear. Wire a fused wire from the ign circuit through the vacuum switch, through the choke switch & to the trans. connecter.

It did have a 4L80e, so we left it alone other than PCM programming. It got 10 empty whether around town or on the highway. My guess is that mileage aint much better than your TH will get. I doubt it is really worth the trouble. Especially when you factor in some type of controller for the 4L80e. BTW the got worse mileage since it had to work so hard.

I put it on a chassis dyno before bolting on a Vortech blower. With the outer wheels removed too wide for the dyno , it made hp and almost ft lbs tq.

Replacing a TH with a R4

But as a rule the r4 holds about 11 Quarts. TV Cable Adjustment Adjusting the TV cable is a relatively easy process that allows you to change the shift points of your vehicle. It will fix a R4 that has really firm shifts, or shifts that feel to sluggish.

See and discover other items: r4 performance, r4 torque converter, r4 transmission, shift kit, torque converter Set up an Amazon Giveaway Amazon Giveaway allows you to run promotional giveaways in order to create buzz, reward your audience, and attract new followers and s: 7.

If what you are tring to do is for better “freeway” driving, or better gas mileage, there are cheaper alternatives. That’s why I asked about your gears. I have a 71 camper special, , that had gears in it. What a pig with the motor screaming at 60mph. The flex fan sounded like a hornets nest ready to take off! Thought about doing the same, but I chose instead to change the rear gear.

It is not as good out of the hole, but I’m after the mileage performance. You can bet it is coming again real soon. I found a set of ‘s from an old 1 ton rear end and very happy with the highway now with the motor running about 1k less rpm’s. It’s getting about mpg better also. The only problem if you can call it one is that the spedo is now about 5mph off, so if you think you’re at speed, you’re actually 5 over.

That is fairly common and don’t worry about it when everybody seems to pass me anyway, keeping my foot out of it. Seems to have plenty more on the big end.

R4 transmission

The reason someone went through all the trouble to put a in was probably due to the fact the r4 had the highest failure rate of any GM trans. When they fail they are extremely expensive to rebuild due to large amount of updates required in an attempt to repair the numerous failures. Not having the converter lock up system working properly will cook it on the highway. Make sure and adj. As for being the worst, I dunno if thats the case, the same vintage TH T4’s were pretty crappy too. Same problem, everything was made real light for fuel efficiency and not enough strength.

Dec 08,  · So, I was wondering how to hook it up and adjust it correctly. There is a spot on the throttle bracket that looks like it should hook up to, but the end of the cable doesn’t reach that far. I had to buy two pieces to correct the “geometry” for my R4 –> street avenger. I wonder if its the same for the Hooking up/ adjusting the.

The cost of the 4L80E makes it impossible for me at the moment. If cost wasn’t an issue for me I would probably just order one from TCI, along with their controller, but it all costs a ton. They have not all been the fault of the builder. Two were the fault of other shops. The first time it was rebuilt it was just because it was old and used up. This was only about miles after rebuild and was covered under warranty.

I don’t believe the whole thing was rebuilt this time because I shut it down really quickly. Third time I had the truck in another shop getting completely unrelated work done. They did not hook the TV cable back up when they were done and burned up overdrive and third while test driving the truck. Shop that screwed it up closed the doors and I couldn’t recover a thing Fourth time it started slipping badly, had trouble getting it in reverse, also covered under warranty, don’t even recall what the issue was supposed to have been.

Viewing a thread

I am attributing that to my errors with the tape measure in my haste to get mine measured so I could get back into a warm house, and I am simply using the published specs. First up, let’s tackle overall length and case length. Overall length is important for the final driveshaft length and the case length is important for the fitment to the transmission tunnel. This will require shortening the driveshaft by a matching amount, so I know that no matter what I will be paying a visit to the local driveshaft shop, which I would be doing anyway – see the section on Inputs and Output for details on why.

That means the transmission should fit nicely without any major clearance issues. This is all good news and there are no major problems to solve here.

The R4 is a good transmission for a retrofit into an older car. It has a to 1 overdrive ratio making even gears great on the street. The following information is what I’ve found out over time and what I encountered installing it in a Z28 Camaro.

The most popular swaps continue to be the R4 and the R4, both of which are good choices and have their advantages. The physical swaps are straightforward, but the one component that still mystifies many people is the throttle-valve T. When connected to the throttle linkage mechanism, a correctly set up T. Designing a pulling arm on your carburetor’s linkage that pulls the T. The challenge really begins when you want the transmission to behave in a specific manner.

The physical dynamics of this cable pull can vary radically with different pulling-arm designs which control the rate of plunger travel speed just off idle and determine the shift timing and shift feel of the transmission. We started by removing the carburetor and gaskets and cleaning the intake surface. We then installed the supplied open-bore gasket and the new, square-bore base plate with the four, small, threaded holes positioned to the driver’s side rear.

Bowtie Overdrives

Printer Friendly cooz65 wrote: First off, let me start by saying thank you to everyone who has responded and helped me out. I really do appreciate it because without you “old” guys I would never learn as much as I have. Hopefully sometime this week I can give John a call, but it’s finals week here at school and I’m doing the best I can to try and study.

Here is a good article I found comparing the two http: The only reason I ask is that between the with.

Hook up the speedo and check it with a GPS. John at MT can build an adaptor to go between the cable and housing to correct it for pretty cheap. Sorry I didn’t get to meet you Sat.

My R4 was sourced from a ’92 Buick Roadmaster with Chevy engine. Thankfully the advancement of the ’92 version of the R4 already had mine as a theoretical “one wire” set-up. In the hope of having others avoid issues I had, I’m relaying the following information: The R4 had many valve body configurations. So, make sure this information is applicable to your type of R4 again mine was a ’92 version.

It is actually a pressure switch in the 4th gear fluid circuit that closes the negative side of the lock-up solenoid to ground making it active and engages the convertor lock-up. My transmission had a temperature switch between the grounding pressure switch and the negative side of the lock-up solenoid. It is there to avoid convertor lock up until fluid temperatures are optimal.

From what I read the setting is not that high. It only seems applicable to very cold areas of the country. And, being I live in So.

Does your 700R4 needs a computer?